Blomkålsfossen (WI5) and Klokkhovdfossen (WI4), Rjukan Centre
With winter back from the dead for an encore I paid one more visit to Rjukan for what would certainly be the final, final weekend of ice climbing for the season. Above all else because I was flying to the Alps the following weekend.
I've climbed none of the big A-list objectives that I had chalked up in my head at the start of the season, although I can take consolation that nobody else has managed to due to poor conditions. The season can be summarised by four weeks of solid cold temperatures in the middle of the season, with some very patchy conditions either side. On the plus side I've found some excellent, opportunistic, less-travelled routes that were well off my radar prior., and sometimes these sorts of routes can be more rewarding due to the lack of pre-expectations or beta.
I had seen Blomkålsfossen from the road previously and it had looked an intimidating prospect. Its appearance resembled a smaller Juvsøyla, however it was hard to properly gauge conditions due to its hight elevation and lack of a decent vantage point. It would be a fairly long approach just to figure this out. Fortunately there were some easier routes in the vicinity, known as the Klokkhovd area, that would hopefully avoid us returning empty handed. Their lengths were also approximately one full pitch, which would hopefully allow for multiple ascents.
Jeroen and I parked as per Fabrikkfossen, and walked westwards as long the broad track beneath the hillside. Our way was barred by a locked gate, where the track passed a factory premises, which necessitated a minor detour along the factory's outer perimeter fence. With no established path the going became a little slower until we were able to rejoin the track at the far end.
I feel as though I have returned to my joika roots this season, after three stuck ropes. Today was no exception as we made a hash of the approach by cutting up the hillside too early due to poor visibility through the trees. What we believed to be Blomkålsfossen was in fact Herligheten, which lay maybe 500m further west. Losing hard-earned elevation to regain the lower track didn't appeal, and so we set about traversing the hillside, over boulders and through forest. Compared to the approach to Skuffelsen a few weeks prior things felt a comparatively straightforward affair until the final stretch. We opted to first head for a WI4 further right called Klokkhovdfossen, which would function as a warm-up and allow us to get a measure of the general conditions. This needed a short mixed section to be pitched in order exit a gully, with a subsequent unusual belay using the iron girders of a weir. All-in-all we managed to clock up a total approach time of 1:45 hours for something that was expected to take less than half that time. We still had time in any case to try the WI4, which looked the banker, and then take a look at Blomkålsfossen thereafter. The other routes in the vicinity were not properly formed.
On a personal note it's been really satisfying this season to lead some WI5s with no conditions beta, or signs of previous ascents, and onsight them in comfortable fashion. Better technique has been the primary difference I think, particularly my general shape and footwork. Having a fifi hook stuffed down my jacket on a sling has also given me the confidence to go for it a bit more, knowing I can loop it to an axe as a last resort if I begin to get too pumped, and rest. In previous seasons I've largely cherry picked my WI5s in comparison, getting on routes that were more well-travelled, had known good conditions, or that had a reputation for being a little soft. I think I've also proved to myself that there is still ample adventure to be had in Rjukan as well. In places such as Hemsedal the list of WI5s that I've yet to climb is actually becoming quite short and very conditions dependent, so maybe it'll be Rjukan that starts to occupy to time a little more in the forthcoming seasons.
I've climbed none of the big A-list objectives that I had chalked up in my head at the start of the season, although I can take consolation that nobody else has managed to due to poor conditions. The season can be summarised by four weeks of solid cold temperatures in the middle of the season, with some very patchy conditions either side. On the plus side I've found some excellent, opportunistic, less-travelled routes that were well off my radar prior., and sometimes these sorts of routes can be more rewarding due to the lack of pre-expectations or beta.
I had seen Blomkålsfossen from the road previously and it had looked an intimidating prospect. Its appearance resembled a smaller Juvsøyla, however it was hard to properly gauge conditions due to its hight elevation and lack of a decent vantage point. It would be a fairly long approach just to figure this out. Fortunately there were some easier routes in the vicinity, known as the Klokkhovd area, that would hopefully avoid us returning empty handed. Their lengths were also approximately one full pitch, which would hopefully allow for multiple ascents.
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| The Klokkhovd area from the road |
Jeroen and I parked as per Fabrikkfossen, and walked westwards as long the broad track beneath the hillside. Our way was barred by a locked gate, where the track passed a factory premises, which necessitated a minor detour along the factory's outer perimeter fence. With no established path the going became a little slower until we were able to rejoin the track at the far end.
I feel as though I have returned to my joika roots this season, after three stuck ropes. Today was no exception as we made a hash of the approach by cutting up the hillside too early due to poor visibility through the trees. What we believed to be Blomkålsfossen was in fact Herligheten, which lay maybe 500m further west. Losing hard-earned elevation to regain the lower track didn't appeal, and so we set about traversing the hillside, over boulders and through forest. Compared to the approach to Skuffelsen a few weeks prior things felt a comparatively straightforward affair until the final stretch. We opted to first head for a WI4 further right called Klokkhovdfossen, which would function as a warm-up and allow us to get a measure of the general conditions. This needed a short mixed section to be pitched in order exit a gully, with a subsequent unusual belay using the iron girders of a weir. All-in-all we managed to clock up a total approach time of 1:45 hours for something that was expected to take less than half that time. We still had time in any case to try the WI4, which looked the banker, and then take a look at Blomkålsfossen thereafter. The other routes in the vicinity were not properly formed.
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| The weir beneath Klokkhovdfossen |
Klokkhovdfossen had more than its fair share of dodgy surface ice, water behind thin ice, plus plenty of snow to clear. There were at least some weird cauliflower features to maintain interest. At one point I found myself bridging between the main wall and a weird stubby fin of ice behind me. The route needed a lot of weaving around to follow the natural weakness and it suffered for it. It wasn't a great in summary, and certainly not worth the approach time in isolation. It served it's purpose as a warm-up though, particularly for Jeroen's fingers which got a good rush of hot aches at the top of the route. Hopefully conditions would be better on Blomkålsfossen.
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| Klokkhovdfossen at close quarters |
To reach Blomkålsfossen from the top of the route we traversed the forested hillside a short distance eastwards. The route location was easy enough to figure out blindly and one long abseil allowed us to reach a gully a little higher and right of the start of route. Conditions on the steep feature looked well formed, so the climb was on.
We knew from the abseil that the climb was a little longer than a 60m rope pitch, but an initial short easy solo to a belay spike up and left positioned us nicely for the main event.
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| Blomkålsfossen |
We knew from the abseil that the climb was a little longer than a 60m rope pitch, but an initial short easy solo to a belay spike up and left positioned us nicely for the main event.
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| Abseiling into Blomkålsfossen |
Things started easily but in similar fashion to where the last route had finished off, with some suspended cruddy snow to plow through and dismantle en route to where the ice funnel leading to the steep climbing began.
The prominent steep feature extended up the main part of the icefall, but a thinner variant existed at fringes on the right, which looked to dodge all the steep ground and go at around WI3+. Unlike Flagetfossen in Hemsedal for example, this weakness lacked a strong line and resembled more of a means of an escape route to the top. With no mention of this variant in the guidebook it's impossible to know if the icefall forms in this manner every year but today at least it looked like an independent line. For us of course the challenge the main feature was the only preoccupying thought, particularly after the long approach.
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| Bad surface ice |
The column was steep and sustained. It was pumpy enough for me to repeatedly need to shake out and reset with each move higher, yet I always felt in control. Blomkålsfossen, which means the cauliflower waterfall, was true to its name and beautifully formed, with largely first time axe placements and useful features for the feet. With the column dispatched I continued up a short extension wall near the top to maintain the line of most resistance.
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| The start of the pillar (Photo by Jeroen Zee) |
We abseiled from the route again, rather than walk off as described by the guidebooks. With 60m ropes this seemed the natural descent and looked to save a lot of bushwhacking.
On a personal note it's been really satisfying this season to lead some WI5s with no conditions beta, or signs of previous ascents, and onsight them in comfortable fashion. Better technique has been the primary difference I think, particularly my general shape and footwork. Having a fifi hook stuffed down my jacket on a sling has also given me the confidence to go for it a bit more, knowing I can loop it to an axe as a last resort if I begin to get too pumped, and rest. In previous seasons I've largely cherry picked my WI5s in comparison, getting on routes that were more well-travelled, had known good conditions, or that had a reputation for being a little soft. I think I've also proved to myself that there is still ample adventure to be had in Rjukan as well. In places such as Hemsedal the list of WI5s that I've yet to climb is actually becoming quite short and very conditions dependent, so maybe it'll be Rjukan that starts to occupy to time a little more in the forthcoming seasons.
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