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Triftjigrat (D, 920m), Breithorn

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We bivi'ed close to the Gandegg hut. Evening views to Breithorn, and the Mont Rosa Group had been fantastic. The weather was settled and there looked to be no excuses for not ticking a decent route the following day. Tomorrow we would try Triftjigrat on the north side of Breithorn. The route looked to end a long way from where we were bivi'ing but we were well acclimatised and confident about covering the distance swiftly. The alarms were set for 2.30am so as to take no chances.


By 3am we were descending the easy rocky ground to the glacier floor that we would traverse to the start of the climbing proper. We moved quickly down the gentle glacial slopes and through a broad gap that separated two bands of rock in the glacier. We descended maybe 150m before the glacier began to rise again. The climbing remained easy. Navigation was also straight-forward as our bivi site had offered an excellent vantage point of the whole route.

By sunrise we already close to the Triftjisattel. We…