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Showing posts with the label Creag Meagaidh

The Wand (V,5), Creag Meagaidh

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Dan and me paid a visit to Creag Meagaidh, which currently has numerous routes in condition. The trail was virtually clear of snow which allowed for an efficient approach. The Pumpkin was dotted with climbers but the Wand remained unoccupied. We headed for the latter. Dan led the lower half of the main ice slab and belayed in a small cave at half height. I continued to the top of the difficulties. Ice conditions were excellent and the climbing felt easy for a V,5 today, no doubt helped by my recent spate of ice climbing in Rjukan. Another good tick this season. We were treated to an Alpine sunset and Dan managed to find his gear dropped from the 1959 Route a week ago. An all round good day. The walk-in The Post Face Climbers on The Pumpkin (V,4), left, and the vacant Wand (V,5) on the right Dan climbing the Sash toward the Wand (V,5) Dan leading the start of the Wand I take over the difficulties (Photo by Dan Moore) Dan & me on the Wand (Pho...

Last Post (V,5), Creag Meagaidh - My first Scottish V

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With routes reportedly in condition at Creag Meagaidh James and me went to investigate. The morning didn't start well when we succumbed to a flat tire in the car park, which we changed before starting the trek into the coire. Our late departure of 9.45am from the car park was at least compensated by excellent conditions on the trail, the walk-in taking only 1 hour 45 minutes.   The walk-in (Last Post pictured left) The temperature was maybe a couple of degrees above freezing today but Last Post looked in excellent condition. The cloud was low and a strong wind was scouring the Inner Coire. Neither of us had climbed a grade V but Last Post looked irresistible and so today seemed as good as any for a first attempt. The only other team in the vicinity had headed into the Inner Coire and so we had the Post Face to ourselves.  Climbing Easy Gully to Last Post James was keen to lead the first pitch, I had no objections ...