Showing posts from October, 2015

Den Hvite Stripa (n6), Andersnatten

I was more apprehensive about Den Hvite Stripa than any route for a long time. The crux pitch I understood to be very bold, with just a couple of bolts on the crux pitch and no possibility for supplementary gear. A bold n6 grade would probably equate to something like UK E2 5b, and so right on my limit. The lack of an adjective grade with the Nordic grading system meant this was just an educated guess though.

How big would the run-outs be?

Big enough to pass my belayer on the way down?

Where did the actual crux moves lie in relation to the bolts?

One thing I did know was that my slab climbing abilities had only slightly improved in recent years and so felt close to a plateau. Now or never.

I lost the paper, scissors, stone contest. 'Lost' in so far as my partner Sten would lead the first pitch leaving the crux second pitch to me.

Just mounting the short wall at the start of the second pitch in order to gain the slab seemed an ordeal. Where were the hand holds? Maybe it was the…