Brudetrusa (WI4), Oppdal

After a long day and late finish on Kongsvollfossen the previous day we were keen for a slow start and definitely something less ambitious. There was plenty of ice close to the roadside but Brudetrusa was the obvious eye-catcher. It's slim winding line looked striking for the grade and was recommended by the guidebook for climbing during early season whilst thinner. It was after midday by the time we were gearing-up beneath the route but with just a long single pitch of climbing there was certainly less urgency compared to the previous day.

Roadside ice

The base of the route was broad, funnelling into a narrow, weaving channel of ice higher up. At times the ice was hard work to find secure placements due to it cracking and dinner-plating. Particularly when featureless and off-vertical. The right side of a broad tier lower down was especially prone to break-up, requiring patience to find some solid placements. As was the very top of the route. My time chalk climbing at Dover had drilled home the discipline of committing to holds only once I had full confidence in them.

Leading the lower tiers
(Photo by Anna Kennedy)

The route was a matter of meters from the road and I had never climbed a route so close to passing traffic. I naturally wondered what the reactions of passers by would be. What was the ratio of admiration to disinterest to those that thought we were reckless fools? Regardless of this, it was probably a bad route to leave myself hanging upside-down on an ice screw with so many passing eyes.

The difficulties and interest were fairly uniform with steeper sections being relatively short-lived. The broad tier lower down and a short pillar close to the top offering the primary difficulties but it's generally sustained nature made it feel middle-of-the grade WI4. Ample ice presented all the way to the top, which allowed free placement of ice screws. In the upper half the route narrowed to take on the character of an ice gully. I belayed off a tree at the top of the route and reflected on it being probably the outstanding single pitch of ice that I had climbed to date.

(Photo by Anna Kennedy)
Anna was feeling tired from the previous day's outing and only at the last minute did she make the decision to second the route. Maybe my vocal appreciation of the route helped. As it happened she cruised the route and really enjoyed it. It capped-off two excellent days ice climbing Oppdal. Somewhere that I can already see becoming a firm favourite during winter.

Very roadside


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