The Wand (V,5), Creag Meagaidh

Dan and me paid a visit to Creag Meagaidh, which currently has numerous routes in condition. The trail was virtually clear of snow which allowed for an efficient approach. The Pumpkin was dotted with climbers but the Wand remained unoccupied. We headed for the latter. Dan led the lower half of the main ice slab and belayed in a small cave at half height. I continued to the top of the difficulties. Ice conditions were excellent and the climbing felt easy for a V,5 today, no doubt helped by my recent spate of ice climbing in Rjukan. Another good tick this season. We were treated to an Alpine sunset and Dan managed to find his gear dropped from the 1959 Route a week ago. An all round good day.

The walk-in
The Post Face
Climbers on The Pumpkin (V,4), left, and the vacant Wand (V,5) on the right
Dan climbing the Sash toward the Wand (V,5)
Dan leading the start of the Wand
I take over the difficulties
(Photo by Dan Moore)
Dan & me on the Wand
(Photo by Alan Halewood)
Dan above the main difficulties
Winter sunset
Perfect conditions
Location: Creag Meagaidh, Roy Bridge, Highland PH31, UK

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